Oxi Blast is a professional urine product. Previously only available to professional cleaners and odor removal technicians. It is now available to you. It works by forcing large amounts of oxygen into the urine residue breaking it down into basic elements like carbon dioxide, oxygen, nitrogen and other elements. These compounds then leave by evaporation or are easily extracted. This product is a specific blend effective on urine not only because of the oxidation but it also contains odourcide, an odor neutralizer that attacks the dog urine neutralizing it by bonding to and encapsulating it. Oxi Blast works on eliminating the urine odor in two separate ways. The oxidation is also affective in removing the urine stains. Plus it contains additives that enhance solution penetration to improve rinsing and removal. The last item I am going to mention is that they have built into it anti-resoiling properties that keep the treated area from attracting new residue. You can order a free sample here. They do charge a shipping and handling fee.
I have written before about dog urine on grass. I told you I would let you know when I found a product that I can recommend for counteracting the damage dog urine causes to grass. The product is "Grass Revitalize for dog urine" from RemoveUrine.com. It is a microbial product that breaks down the excess nitrogen in the urine. You spray it on the grass and lightly water it in. Two to three applications a year. It helps and strengthens the grass in several ways including effectively dealing with the three reported issues with dog urine.
I came across a question about pet stains on hardwood. The following comment and question was asked.
"I left my dogs alone for a couple days and they peed EVERYWHERE. The hardwood floor is dark in some spots and after mopping it still smells! Does anyone know a way I can fix this without tearing up the floors????"
In answer to this the following was written.
"From your description it sounds like the urine has soaked into the hardwood. I have hardwood floors that are sealed well with a quality sealer. When our dog was a puppy she would pee on them often. We were lucky because the urine beaded up and we were able to wipe it up and remove it. Eventually I know it would have found its way into the hardwood, had it been in greater volume or left to sit for too long of a time. There are different types of products available that will eliminate the smell but they have to come in contact with the urine residue. This means you have to soak them into the hardwood to reach the urine. Some of these products will also remove the pet stains. One of the challenges with wood is that the moisture from the urine or the chemicals can warp the hardwood and cause additional damage. It might be worth a try though. If you can’t get the smell and stain out to your satisfaction with these products then the next step is to sand it down removing the stain and odor and refinish the hardwood. If this does not work then you are to the replace the floor stage which is usually the most expensive."
I am continuing with my series on questions from readers with answers.
Rick writes and asks "Can you please tell me more about the odor neutralizer? I am working with concrete that has been used in a dog day care / kennel for a couple of years. So far I have tried a degreaser/cleaner, enzymes (which included covering the floor with plastic for 24 hours to keep it wet), white vinegar, a high-tech odor neutralizer, and finally bleach, both straight and diluted. I have power-washed at the start, and again after each of these treatments. The bad odor has been reduced but it is still present."
Thanks for asking. Concrete is porous so what you have is a situation where dog urine has been soaking into the porous surface (it sounds like continuously) for a couple years. At least some of the products you have used are working. The enzymes work by digesting the urine residue. The reason you keep them wet its two-fold. One: They have to be wet to be active. When they dry they do nothing. Two: To get them to soak into the concrete far enough to reach the urine, which would be in pretty deep. Bleach uses oxygen to break down the urine. It will work also if it can reach the urine in enough concentration and for a long enough time to work (which for oxygen is fast). Washing is good and it will remove the urine it can get to. You do need to be careful with power washing though because it can drive the urine even deeper into the concrete depending on how you do it. Neutralizer you asked about also has to come in contact with the urine to change the molecules. So your challenge is to get one of these (a good product) deep enough into the concrete. Where the urine is after a couple years of soaking in. One suggestion is to apply a product and keep it wet for several days. The longer it is wet the deeper it will penetrate. Also make sure that the urine smell is not coming from surrounding items. Is there wood close that might be contaminated or fabric or even dirt. Urine will wick up several inches into other materials when present. It is common not to be able to completely remove all the odor in a situation like yours. (concrete or even wood) So an option used by professionals is to seal the concrete. After you have removed the majority of the odor you can then seal the concrete with a good pigmented shellac, varnish or acrylic sealer. These sealers have microscopic holes left in them when they dry. These holes are larger than the odor molecules so odor can still get through the sealer. If you apply two coats of sealer this will help eliminate that issue. The end result is a completely satisfactory odor neutralized environment. Get back to me with any additional questions.
- Paul LaRosa's Here is New York » Fighting urine with urine…
December 2, 2009
- Very interesting idea if you have that need.
A reader left a comment asking what dog urine products I recommend.I have pasted the comment and reply below just in case you are asking the same thing.
"I have read through your well thought out analysis of the types of products available to remove dog urine, but I cannot find any products listed. I am desperate! I understand the types of products I need to look for, but so many products advertised seem like they are a scam. What do you recommend? "
Thank you. I started this blog as a source of information so people can better deal with the damage they were having from dog urine. Both odors and stains. I was a professional cleaner for many years and I know there are some bad products that are being sold. And I would agree with you, they are a scam. I tried a lot of them. Back then I found a manufacturer and supplier of professional chemicals and products that produced excellent results.These same suppliers also taught courses on all aspects of the odor control industry along with other aspects of the business. Among other things these courses taught how to properly use the products to get the best results. And again they were professional products developed for distributors and professionals cleaners. I dealt with these suppliers for years. I have been working with them to develop a line of products we will offer to the end consumer (you). It is not as easy as it sounds. We hope to have the first ones available within a couple weeks. I will put up links on this site so you can find them, as soon as they are available."
In this post I touch on two excellent dog odor removers. In my last couple posts I have been responding to comments left by readers previously. I am doing that again today.
Susan wrote "I have an old dog who marks all over the house. I have taken out a lot of carpet and put in wood. In the carpeted areas left I smell that amonia odor and it is really getting to me. I’ve developed asthma and feel this off gassing or something is contributing to my health issues. Also I am allergic to several molds. Please tell me what products specifically I can use to get rid of this problem. Many thanks in advance!"
There are a couple products that break the urine down. Oxidation will break it into basic elements such as nitrogen, carbon dioxide and oxygen. These elements are then easily cleaned out. I am not a doctor and would not presume to give medical advice. That being said, I would think that after this Oxidation process is complete the basic elements that remain would not bother your asthma or contribute to the health issues you mentioned. Also Bio/enzyme products digest the urine, break it down and change it. Bio/enzymes are the primary organism used to break down sewage in treatment plants, returning the water to a clean, non-hazardous condition. I would think either of these type products would help with your problem. When using these products you have to effectively locate the urine areas and assess how large they are. The product has to come in contact with the urine. This may mean wetting an area thoroughly. And with enzymes they take time to work so it has to be kept moist for long enough for the enzymes to be effective. You mention being allergic to molds. Molds are a completely separate issue as you know and I won't attempt to address that here.
I am presently working with a company to make available to you a line of products previously only available to professionals. They will be available through http://www.removeurine.com. Now under construction. They should have some items up within a week or two. I understand they will have a free sample you sign up for of a great Oxidation product called Oxi Blast.
- Health` » Choosing the Right Dog Food For Dogs With Bladder Stones *...*
November 23, 2009
- In this article they clearly identify a couple of the negative health affects that your dog can have when you feed it supplements designed to change the acidity of its urine. These products are usually for the purpose of making the dog urine less damaging to grass and lawns.
4 steps to remove dog urine. This is a response to a comment that was left by Stephan. He wrote "no comment other than finding a solution to the dog peeing and the smell!! " The following is a four step solution to the smell and also how to remove dog urine. The links will take you to posts that go into more detail about the steps.
Step one: Locate the problem areas. Step two: Clean as much of the urine residue out as you can. Step three: Treat the area and remaining urine residue with a one of the odor removal agents that work. Step four: Insure that the affected areas dry properly. The method of drying will vary depending on the type of product you are using. As you locate the problem areas try to assess how large the area is that is contaminated. You need a good idea of how much area you need to treat both in circumference and in depth. Example: Is it a 2 inch spot or a 12 inch or a 24 inch spot? Has it soaked through the carpet pad and into the wood floor? Or is it only in the face fibers of the carpet? If you do not treat all of the affected area you will not get complete odor removal. Use one of the quality products that is designed to counteract the smell. All good odor removal products have to come in contact with the urine and urine residue and they will eliminate the smell. Different type products work differently so follow the instructions for the one you are using. Some work immediately on contact and others need time to work on (digest) the urine. I will soon have a page added tho this blog of recommended professional products. These are products that have been available only to professionals that will now be made available to you. Watch for it. I hope this helps Stephan and anyone else who has a similar question.
I am going to answer a question that was posted for me a little while ago. It is to do with the white powder or residue left from dog urine on concrete. This white powder many times is visible on concrete and not visible in other situations. It could be present but not visible on carpet for example. If the residue is heavy you will see it on carpet also. The question left for me was this:
"There are many white stains on our concrete path from my dogs urine. Is this white reaction from the concrete or a stomach problem.
The reaction is neither a stomach problem or a reaction to the concrete but a condition created from the urine. When urine leaves the body human or mammal it is slightly acid (or acidic on the ph scale). The urine begins to change as soon as it leaves the body. Uric acid in the dogs urine is broken down into ammonia and carbon dioxide. The ammonia is high alkaline on the ph scale. The reaction from the acidic urine and the ammonia creates alkaline salt crystals. This is the white residue left on the concrete from the dogs urine. A good acid pretreatment wash will neutralize the alkaline salt crystals (white residue). Once neutralized it wash's off easily with water or another neutral cleaner. If the urine has penetrated deeply into the concrete you may want to use an enzyme digester or oxidation product to deal with any smell or other residue. But the acid cleaner will remove the alkaline salts (white residue) left from the dog urine on the concrete.