I am continuing with my series on questions from readers with answers.
Rick writes and asks “Can you please tell me more about the odor neutralizer? I am working with concrete that has been used in a dog day care / kennel for a couple of years. So far I have tried a degreaser/cleaner, enzymes (which included covering the floor with plastic for 24 hours to keep it wet), white vinegar, a high-tech odor neutralizer, and finally bleach, both straight and diluted. I have power-washed at the start, and again after each of these treatments. The bad odor has been reduced but it is still present.”
Answer:
Rick
Thanks for asking. Concrete is porous so what you have is a situation where dog urine has been soaking into the porous surface (it sounds like continuously) for a couple years. At least some of the products you have used are working. The enzymes work by digesting the urine residue. The reason you keep them wet its two-fold. One: They have to be wet to be active. When they dry they do nothing. Two: To get them to soak into the concrete far enough to reach the urine, which would be in pretty deep. Bleach uses oxygen to break down the urine. It will work also if it can reach the urine in enough concentration and for a long enough time to work (which for oxygen is fast). Washing is good and it will remove the urine it can get to. You do need to be careful with power washing though because it can drive the urine even deeper into the concrete depending on how you do it. Neutralizer you asked about also has to come in contact with the urine to change the molecules. So your challenge is to get one of these (a good product) deep enough into the concrete. Where the urine is after a couple years of soaking in. One suggestion is to apply a product and keep it wet for several days. The longer it is wet the deeper it will penetrate. Also make sure that the urine smell is not coming from surrounding items. Is there wood close that might be contaminated or fabric or even dirt. Urine will wick up several inches into other materials when present. It is common not to be able to completely remove all the odor in a situation like yours. (concrete or even wood) So an option used by professionals is to seal the concrete. After you have removed the majority of the odor you can then seal the concrete with a good pigmented shellac, varnish or acrylic sealer. These sealers have microscopic holes left in them when they dry. These holes are larger than the odor molecules so odor can still get through the sealer. If you apply two coats of sealer this will help eliminate that issue. The end result is a completely satisfactory odor neutralized environment. Get back to me with any additional questions.
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#1 by Ned Yuzefowich - March 2nd, 2010 at 13:28
I have tenants that have allowed their dog to urinate and deficate on a tar and gravel roof to the point that it was covered in dog feces. Other tenants stated this has been happening for 3-4 months every day.
Question:
Can the urine and feces break down the tar roof. If so by what process? One roofer said the roof is contaminated. Another stated that the ammonia and acidity has damaged the roof? Will the urine odor stay in the tar and smell during hot humid days. Both stated that the roof has to be replaced is this true?
#2 by Dog Urine - March 9th, 2010 at 09:18
Ned
Let me start by saying I am not an expert on roofs. I am aware though that the tar (and tar materials) are used to seal the roof and protect the building from moisture. The gravel is used to protect the tar from the sun deteriorating it and breaking it down. I don’t believe that if the roof is in otherwise good condition that the urine and feces would damage the ability of the tar to seal out moisture. And it certainly would not harm the gravel so that it could not do its function. Yes the roof would be contaminated. Anything the urine and feces comes in contact with would be contaminated. It can be decontaminated by the use of chemicals without replacing the roof. Several type of chemicals will decontaminate urine. Bio/enzymes are the primary organism used to break down sewage in treatment plants. These chemicals have to come in contact with the urine residue to break it down. You would want to clean the roof as completely as possible fist and then treat with a good chemical that will break down the urine residue and not harm the tar. As these chemicals break down the residue they eliminate the odor. When urine leaves the body it is slightly acid (uric acid) and it immediately begins to change. The Uric acid begins to be broken down into ammonia and carbon dioxide. The ammonia is highly alkaline (ph 11+). As the acidic urine reacts with the ammonia that is being created it forms alkaline salt crystals. When dried urine is re moistened it gives off ammonia gas. The odor of ammonia gas is one part of the distinctive odor that helps us to identify and locate urine. The other component of urine’s odor is off-gassing from bacteria that grow abundantly in warm, dark places. I do not know exactly how this process would affect the tar materials on the roof. Thank you for the question.