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Urine Odor And Stain Destroyer
NEW Oxi Blast from RemoveUrine.com combines the cleaning and deodorizing power of natural oxygen with the odor bonding and encapsulating power of Odourcide. Creating an entirely new way to neutralize odors caused by urine contamination. The natural oxygen will effectively eliminate stains caused by urine contamination. The Odourcide immediately neutralizes urine odors on contact. Click Here To Find Out How To Get your Free Sample
#1 by Rachel - August 27th, 2009 at 22:07
I have read through your well thought out analysis of the types of products available to remove dog urine, but I cannot find any products listed. I am desperate! I understand the types of products I need to look for, but so many products advertised seem like they are a scam. What do you recommend?
#2 by Susan Dunker - September 5th, 2009 at 07:39
I have an old dog who marks all over the house. I have taken out a lot of carpet and put in wood. In the carpeted areas left I smell that amonia odor and it is really getting to me. I’ve developed asthma and feel this off gassing or something is contributing to my health issues. Also I am allergic to several molds. Please tell me what products specifically I can use to get rid of this problem. Many thanks in advance!
#3 by Dog Urine - November 24th, 2009 at 11:22
Susan
There are a couple products that break the urine down. Oxidation will break it into basic elements such as nitrogen, carbon dioxide and oxygen. These elements are then easily cleaned out. I am not a doctor and would not presume to give medical advice. That being said, I would think that after this Oxidation process is complete the basic elements that remain would not bother your asthma or contribute to the health issues you mentioned. Also Bio/enzyme products digest the urine, break it down and change it. Bio/enzymes are the primary organism used to break down sewage in treatment plants, returning the water to a clean, non-hazardous condition. I would think either of these type products would help with your problem. When using these products you have to effectively locate the urine areas and assess how large they are. The product has to come in contact with the urine. This may mean wetting an area thoroughly. And with enzymes they take time to work so it has to be kept moist for long enough for the enzymes to be effective. You mention being allergic to molds. Molds are a completely separate issue as you know. I am presently working with a company to make available to you a line of products previously only available to professionals. They will be available through http://www.removeurine.com. Now under construction. They should have some items up within a week or two. I understand they will have a free sample you sign up for of a great Oxidation product.
#4 by Dog Urine - November 26th, 2009 at 11:24
Rachel
Thank you. I started this blog as a source of information so people can better deal with the damage they were having from dog urine. Both odors and stains. I was a professional cleaner for many years and I know there are some bad products that are being sold. And I would agree with you, they are a scam. I tried a lot of them. Back then I found a manufacturer and supplier of professional chemicals and products that produced excellent results.These same suppliers also taught courses on all aspects of the odor control industry along with other aspects of the business. Among other things these courses taught how to properly use the products to get the best results. And again they were professional products developed for distributors and professionals cleaners. I dealt with these suppliers for years. I have been working with them to develop a line of products we will offer to the end consumer (you). It is not as easy as it sounds. We hope to have the first ones available within a couple weeks. I will put up links on this site so you can find them, as soon as they are available.
#5 by Rick - November 30th, 2009 at 18:52
Can you please tell me more about the odor neutralizer? I am working with concrete that has been used in a dog day care / kennel for a couple of years. So far I have tried a degreaser/cleaner, enzymes (which included covering the floor with plastic for 24 hours to keep it wet), white vinegar, a high-tech odor neutralizer, and finally bleach, both straight and diluted. I have power-washed at the start, and again after each of these treatments. The bad odor has been reduced but it is still present.
#6 by Dog Urine - December 2nd, 2009 at 09:32
Rick
Thanks for asking. Concrete is porous so what you have is a situation where dog urine has been soaking into the porous surface (it sounds like continuously) for a couple years. At least some of the products you have used are working. The enzymes work by digesting the urine residue. The reason you keep them wet its two-fold. One: They have to be wet to be active. When they dry they do nothing. Two: To get them to soak into the concrete far enough to reach the urine, which would be in pretty deep. Bleach uses oxygen to break down the urine. It will work also if it can reach the urine in enough concentration and for a long enough time to work (which for oxygen is fast). Washing is good and it will remove the urine it can get to. You do need to be careful with power washing though because it can drive the urine even deeper into the concrete depending on how you do it. Neutralizer you asked about also has to come in contact with the urine to change the molecules. So your challenge is to get one of these (a good product) deep enough into the concrete. Where the urine is after a couple years of soaking in. One suggestion is to apply a product and keep it wet for several days. The longer it is wet the deeper it will penetrate. Also make sure that the urine smell is not coming from surrounding items. Is there wood close that might be contaminated or fabric or even dirt. Urine will wick up several inches into other materials when present. It is common not to be able to completely remove all the odor in a situation like yours. (concrete or even wood) So an option used by professionals is to seal the concrete. After you have removed the majority of the odor you can then seal the concrete with a good pigmented shellac, varnish or acrylic sealer. These sealers have microscopic holes left in them when they dry. These holes are larger than the odor molecules so odor can still get through the sealer. If you apply two coats of sealer this will help eliminate that issue. The end result is a completely satisfactory odor neutralized environment. Get back to me with any additional questions.
#7 by Roberta Shoaf - February 18th, 2010 at 10:14
I have stainless steel “drains” that we power spray daily, but I have a build up of urine crystals that are very hard to remove. Any suggestions on a product or process that will remove the crusty buildup?
#8 by Dog Urine - March 4th, 2010 at 09:31
Roberta
Sorry for the delay in responding. I will address a process first. The urine crystal build up is high alkaline urine salts which form as the urine dries. Like other alkaline situations (hard water, rust etc.) you can neutralize it with an acid based product. After it is neutralized it washes away easily. It basically just dissolves and runs off or down the drain in your case. The challenge I foresee with your situation is that the acid can discolor the stainless steel. You will want an acid strong enough to neutralize the urine crystals but not strong enough to damage the stainless.
Some type of acids work faster than others at dissolving the urine crystals. Some are safer for the stainless steel drain covers. There are also different grades of stainless steel, which can effect how the drain cover will respond to the acid cleaning.
Citric acid is very safe for the stainless steel. Dissolve 1 to 1 ½ cups of Citric acid (powder) into a gallon of hot water. Apply to the area with the urine. A sprayer with a tip that produces foam will allow the acid to stay in contact with the crystals for a longer time. Hopefully this will be enough for the slower acting citric acid to dissolve the urine. Then rinse with clear water or water with just a little alkaline (most dish, laundry or hand soaps) in it to neutralize the acid.
TCU will work much faster to dissolve the urine but can also take some shine off the stainless steel. I suggest trying the citric acid first. Only go to the TCU if the citric does not work. Try the safest approach first. Especially with the TCU Neutralizer, be sure to rinse with a little alkaline in the rinse water.
TCU: http://www.bridgepoint.com/products.html?item_num=CS20GL++++++++++++++&wscdet_show=320000
CITRIC ACID: http://www.bridgepoint.com/products.html?item_num=CR20A+++++++++++++++&wscdet_show=365000
Locate a distributor near you: http://www.bridgepoint.com/locator.html