Comments for Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com Dog Urine Solutions and Resources Wed, 23 Jun 2010 20:58:24 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2 hourly 1 Comment on About by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/about/comment-page-1/#comment-421 Dog Urine Wed, 23 Jun 2010 20:58:24 +0000 http://dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=2#comment-421 No offense taken. It is an issue. More than most could imagine. There are a lot of dogs out there and every one urinates. Often causing problems for dog owners and neighbors of dog owners. I had associate that was going to work with me on this site but he just couldn't get himself to become the dog urine guy. I somehow was ok with it. No offense taken. It is an issue. More than most could imagine. There are a lot of dogs out there and every one urinates. Often causing problems for dog owners and neighbors of dog owners. I had associate that was going to work with me on this site but he just couldn’t get himself to become the dog urine guy. I somehow was ok with it.

]]> Comment on About by Green Guru Landscaping http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/about/comment-page-1/#comment-420 Green Guru Landscaping Tue, 22 Jun 2010 17:07:45 +0000 http://dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=2#comment-420 I laughed out loud at your domain name. No offense intended; I know that this is an issue. It's just not something you see everyday "dog urine solutions." I laughed out loud at your domain name. No offense intended; I know that this is an issue. It’s just not something you see everyday “dog urine solutions.”

]]> Comment on Urine Odor out of Concrete by Pharmacy technician book http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/odor-removal/urine-odor-concrete-2/comment-page-1/#comment-415 Pharmacy technician book Wed, 09 Jun 2010 06:38:21 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=830#comment-415 What a great resource! What a great resource!

]]> Comment on Dogs Urine by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/dog-urine/dogs-urine/comment-page-1/#comment-406 Dog Urine Tue, 01 Jun 2010 13:32:25 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=620#comment-406 Paul This is fairly common. When dog urine first leaves the dogs body is slightly acidic on the PH scale. Immediately after leaving the dog it comes in contact with other elements in the environment and it begins to change and form alkaline salt crystals. In most cases these alkaline crystals are the white stains your referring to. These alkaline crystals will also show up on carpet and other materials. It is not limited to concrete. They do become obvious quicker on concrete though. When urine is fresh and acidic in nature you use an alkaline product to neutralize it. When it has become alkaline you use an acid base product to neutralize it. <a href="http://www.removeurine.com" rel="nofollow">www.removeurine.com</a> has a product called "Severe Urine" designed for this. If you are also dealing with a urine odor problem this is a separate issue from the alkaline salts. Severe Urine is designed to help with odor also. Hope this answers your question. Paul
This is fairly common. When dog urine first leaves the dogs body is slightly acidic on the PH scale. Immediately after leaving the dog it comes in contact with other elements in the environment and it begins to change and form alkaline salt crystals. In most cases these alkaline crystals are the white stains your referring to. These alkaline crystals will also show up on carpet and other materials. It is not limited to concrete. They do become obvious quicker on concrete though. When urine is fresh and acidic in nature you use an alkaline product to neutralize it. When it has become alkaline you use an acid base product to neutralize it. http://www.removeurine.com has a product called “Severe Urine” designed for this. If you are also dealing with a urine odor problem this is a separate issue from the alkaline salts. Severe Urine is designed to help with odor also. Hope this answers your question.

]]> Comment on Dogs Urine by Emily http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/dog-urine/dogs-urine/comment-page-1/#comment-399 Emily Tue, 01 Jun 2010 01:55:34 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=620#comment-399 there are many white stains on out concrete path from my dogs urine. Is this reaction white the concrete or a tomach problem. thanks paul there are many white stains on out concrete path from my dogs urine. Is this reaction white the concrete or a tomach problem.
thanks
paul

]]> Comment on Dog Urine and Odor Memory by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/urine-odor/dog-urine-odor-memory/comment-page-1/#comment-381 Dog Urine Fri, 28 May 2010 14:56:29 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=885#comment-381 Steve Thanks for kind words. I was in the cleaning business for years (which included dog urine remediation and odor control). I new I had some professional level inside information on the subject and thought it would help people who have that problem. It is not a subject many would read about purely out of interest (I don't think so anyway) but for those trying to get rid of dog urine smell stain or contamination it becomes as you say very useful. There are products being sold that are just not very good and others that are good but don't really explain how to use them properly. I think they want to make it seem real easy and in most cases it takes more than a little spray on the surface of the dog urine deposits to get the results desired. Steve
Thanks for kind words. I was in the cleaning business for years (which included dog urine remediation and odor control). I new I had some professional level inside information on the subject and thought it would help people who have that problem. It is not a subject many would read about purely out of interest (I don’t think so anyway) but for those trying to get rid of dog urine smell stain or contamination it becomes as you say very useful. There are products being sold that are just not very good and others that are good but don’t really explain how to use them properly. I think they want to make it seem real easy and in most cases it takes more than a little spray on the surface of the dog urine deposits to get the results desired.

]]> Comment on Dog Urine and Odor Memory by Steve http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/urine-odor/dog-urine-odor-memory/comment-page-1/#comment-380 Steve Fri, 28 May 2010 08:37:57 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=885#comment-380 Great site. A lot of useful information here. I’m sending it to some friends! Great site. A lot of useful information here. I’m sending it to some friends!

]]> Comment on Urine Odor out of Concrete by Delia Burton http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/odor-removal/urine-odor-concrete-2/comment-page-1/#comment-379 Delia Burton Thu, 27 May 2010 12:14:05 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=830#comment-379 If I had a dime for every time I came to www.dogurinesolutions.com! Superb post! If I had a dime for every time I came to http://www.dogurinesolutions.com! Superb post!

]]> Comment on Urine Odor out of Concrete by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/odor-removal/urine-odor-concrete-2/comment-page-1/#comment-320 Dog Urine Tue, 18 May 2010 00:02:53 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=830#comment-320 Kristen Two keys to getting effective results when killing the odor associated with dog urine. One is using a chemical that works and the other is getting the chemical in contact with the urine residue. There are several types of chemicals that are effective in killing this odor. There are good and bad products in each type. Oxidation is one type that works quite well. Clorox bleach is an oxidizing product. It will work well but it has to come in contact with the urine residue for a long enough period of time to do the job. If the dogs have been urinating in the spots you mentioned for months or years then the urine has built up and soaked deep into the concrete. You of course want to make sure each area affected gets cleaned and treated heavily enough to reach the residue and counteract it. I am assuming it is concrete and an unfinished basement. If it is finished with carpet and pad and Sheetrock walls etc. then you have a larger challenge. The principles of odor removal remain the same for the different situations but different materials need to be dealt with individually. The chemical needs to contact the urine. If you are using a enzyme product, it has to come in contact with the residue and stay moist for a long enough period for the enzymes to digest the urine molecules. For concrete I would try Clorox bleach and keep it wet long enough so it can soak deep into the concrete. If necessary use two coats of a pigmented shellac concrete sealer after as much odor as possible has been eliminated. Kristen
Two keys to getting effective results when killing the odor associated with dog urine. One is using a chemical that works and the other is getting the chemical in contact with the urine residue. There are several types of chemicals that are effective in killing this odor. There are good and bad products in each type. Oxidation is one type that works quite well. Clorox bleach is an oxidizing product. It will work well but it has to come in contact with the urine residue for a long enough period of time to do the job. If the dogs have been urinating in the spots you mentioned for months or years then the urine has built up and soaked deep into the concrete. You of course want to make sure each area affected gets cleaned and treated heavily enough to reach the residue and counteract it. I am assuming it is concrete and an unfinished basement. If it is finished with carpet and pad and Sheetrock walls etc. then you have a larger challenge. The principles of odor removal remain the same for the different situations but different materials need to be dealt with individually. The chemical needs to contact the urine. If you are using a enzyme product, it has to come in contact with the residue and stay moist for a long enough period for the enzymes to digest the urine molecules. For concrete I would try Clorox bleach and keep it wet long enough so it can soak deep into the concrete. If necessary use two coats of a pigmented shellac concrete sealer after as much odor as possible has been eliminated.

]]> Comment on Urine Odor out of Concrete by kristen wilson http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/odor-removal/urine-odor-concrete-2/comment-page-1/#comment-319 kristen wilson Sun, 16 May 2010 12:08:58 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=830#comment-319 Hi there! My husband and I recently bought a house with the contingency the old owners will pay and fix the smell of dog urine from the basement. Apparentley the dog was peeing in a couple of spots for a long time. Problem is they did have a professional power washing place come out and do the basment a couple days ago. Well I wentr over there to check it yestereday to see if it was gone and I smelled that pluse the wash smell together. Before I even reached the basement! It was being aired out and I'm not sure if it will be completley gone. It sure does'nt smell like it! They do stll have to fix it, is there any chemical or sealer I should reccomend to the current owners!? Hi there!
My husband and I recently bought a house with the contingency the old owners will pay and fix the smell of dog urine from the basement. Apparentley the dog was peeing in a couple of spots for a long time.
Problem is they did have a professional power washing place come out and do the basment a couple days ago. Well I wentr over there to check it yestereday to see if it was gone and I smelled that pluse the wash smell together. Before I even reached the basement! It was being aired out and I’m not sure if it will be completley gone. It sure does’nt smell like it!
They do stll have to fix it, is there any chemical or sealer I should reccomend to the current owners!?

]]> Comment on Contact by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-318 Dog Urine Thu, 06 May 2010 14:44:27 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=715#comment-318 Mark As you know these odors can be challenging. You say the smell has returned indicating that it was gone for some period of time. This makes me wonder what changed to to stir the smell up again. The 3 things that come to mind are moisture, heat and air movement. If the weather (air) in your area has turned more moist recently, or the garage has been warmer, or air is being circulated through the area (or any combination of these) then that could explain the smell returning. Re-create the conditions before the smell returned and you have a good chance that the smell will become undetectable again. The fact that the smell did come back shows that it was not eliminated in the cleaning and treating process, or sealed effectively enough to do the job for you. Unless you have a dog of your own and additional urine has been added to the area. This happens often. A dog will smell the residual odor of urine even when we can't and urinate in that same area. Sealing helps but there are microscopic holes in sealers. These microscopic holes or air bubbles are actually larger than the odor molecules. So the odor molecules can and will pass through the sealer when conditions allow. Sealers do not create an absolute seal against odors. Some say sealers are useless because of this. Most say that the sealers will seal enough of the odor to be useful. If you use an additional coat of sealer that will then block more of the odor molecules from escaping or moving through the seal. If you decide you need to re-treat the concrete then you will need to remove the sealer you have put down to do that. Use a good urine eliminating product (<a href="http://www.removeurine.com" rel="nofollow">www.removeurine.com</a>) (or a regular oxidizing bleach can work well on concrete) and keep it on and wet long enough so it will soak down into concrete and come in contact with the urine. It needs to come in contact with the urine to neutralize, digest or encapsulate it. After treating and removing most (say 90%) of the smell with treatment then a couple coats of good sealer usually is satisfactory. One other thing I will throw out there is to check the Sheetrock and wood framing in the garage, or any other surfaces (items)that might have been contaminated. The smell could be coming from these other items. Many times the urine will soak into these and they need to be decontaminated also. Mark
As you know these odors can be challenging. You say the smell has returned indicating that it was gone for some period of time. This makes me wonder what changed to to stir the smell up again. The 3 things that come to mind are moisture, heat and air movement. If the weather (air) in your area has turned more moist recently, or the garage has been warmer, or air is being circulated through the area (or any combination of these) then that could explain the smell returning. Re-create the conditions before the smell returned and you have a good chance that the smell will become undetectable again.
The fact that the smell did come back shows that it was not eliminated in the cleaning and treating process, or sealed effectively enough to do the job for you. Unless you have a dog of your own and additional urine has been added to the area. This happens often. A dog will smell the residual odor of urine even when we can’t and urinate in that same area. Sealing helps but there are microscopic holes in sealers. These microscopic holes or air bubbles are actually larger than the odor molecules. So the odor molecules can and will pass through the sealer when conditions allow. Sealers do not create an absolute seal against odors. Some say sealers are useless because of this. Most say that the sealers will seal enough of the odor to be useful. If you use an additional coat of sealer that will then block more of the odor molecules from escaping or moving through the seal.
If you decide you need to re-treat the concrete then you will need to remove the sealer you have put down to do that. Use a good urine eliminating product (http://www.removeurine.com) (or a regular oxidizing bleach can work well on concrete) and keep it on and wet long enough so it will soak down into concrete and come in contact with the urine. It needs to come in contact with the urine to neutralize, digest or encapsulate it. After treating and removing most (say 90%) of the smell with treatment then a couple coats of good sealer usually is satisfactory.
One other thing I will throw out there is to check the Sheetrock and wood framing in the garage, or any other surfaces (items)that might have been contaminated. The smell could be coming from these other items. Many times the urine will soak into these and they need to be decontaminated also.

]]> Comment on Contact by Mark http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-317 Mark Wed, 05 May 2010 22:16:54 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=715#comment-317 I bought a house about a year ago. The previous owners let the dogs urinate in the garage. After moving in we used just about every cleaning solution to get the smell out. After cleaning the concrete we then sealed it with an epoxy concrete sealer. The smell of urine has returned. I am not sure how to get rid of it. Not sure if using any cleaning products would help seeing that we sealed the concrete. What would you recommend in this situation? Thanks-Mark I bought a house about a year ago. The previous owners let the dogs urinate in the garage. After moving in we used just about every cleaning solution to get the smell out. After cleaning the concrete we then sealed it with an epoxy concrete sealer. The smell of urine has returned. I am not sure how to get rid of it. Not sure if using any cleaning products would help seeing that we sealed the concrete. What would you recommend in this situation? Thanks-Mark

]]> Comment on Dog Urine and Odor Memory by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/urine-odor/dog-urine-odor-memory/comment-page-1/#comment-316 Dog Urine Tue, 04 May 2010 14:21:00 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=885#comment-316 Thanks TomPier Thanks TomPier

]]> Comment on Dog Urine In Grout by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/dog-urine/dog-urine-grout/comment-page-1/#comment-315 Dog Urine Tue, 04 May 2010 14:20:09 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=776#comment-315 Carrie There are products that deal with both the stain and the smell. Oxidation products and enzyme products are two that will do this. Sometimes the urine stain will be stubborn and will not completely be removed by these. So you can use a product that is designed specifically to remove the stain only. <a href="http://www.removeurine.com" rel="nofollow">www.removeurine.com</a> has all of these. If the urine has bleached (lightened the color in the grout then these will not help). If your grout is white you can use stronger bleaching chemicals to remove the stain. You can also use a grout saw and remove a small area of the grout (surface only if you like) and replace with new grout. You should be able to match it if it was recently done as you described. It should also be fairly easy to remove if recently done. The newer the grout is the easier it will soften up when wet. If it is under 24 hours old and you do not want to remove the grout then just be gentle as you work on it. The stain might disappear when the urine dries. The stain could simply be from the grout getting wet. The urine is still in there it is just not visible. Carrie
There are products that deal with both the stain and the smell. Oxidation products and enzyme products are two that will do this. Sometimes the urine stain will be stubborn and will not completely be removed by these. So you can use a product that is designed specifically to remove the stain only. http://www.removeurine.com has all of these. If the urine has bleached (lightened the color in the grout then these will not help). If your grout is white you can use stronger bleaching chemicals to remove the stain. You can also use a grout saw and remove a small area of the grout (surface only if you like) and replace with new grout. You should be able to match it if it was recently done as you described. It should also be fairly easy to remove if recently done. The newer the grout is the easier it will soften up when wet. If it is under 24 hours old and you do not want to remove the grout then just be gentle as you work on it. The stain might disappear when the urine dries. The stain could simply be from the grout getting wet. The urine is still in there it is just not visible.

]]> Comment on Dog Urine and Odor Memory by TomPier http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/urine-odor/dog-urine-odor-memory/comment-page-1/#comment-314 TomPier Tue, 04 May 2010 09:19:45 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=885#comment-314 great post as usual! great post as usual!

]]> Comment on Dog Urine In Grout by Carrie http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/dog-urine/dog-urine-grout/comment-page-1/#comment-313 Carrie Sat, 01 May 2010 02:45:25 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=776#comment-313 Hi, I have a question? I just had my new slate installed on Thursday April 29th, We have a dog that likes to piss on everything was told by the installer that after 72hrs we could seal it. Well we let the dogs in the room for a few so they could play and our dog urinated on the slate and grout before sealed what can I do to get the stain out and the smell if there is any? Is it to soon to use anything on it cause its new? Hi,

I have a question?

I just had my new slate installed on Thursday April 29th, We have a dog that likes to piss on everything was told by the installer that after 72hrs we could seal it. Well we let the dogs in the room for a few so they could play and our dog urinated on the slate and grout before sealed what can I do to get the stain out and the smell if there is any? Is it to soon to use anything on it cause its new?

]]> Comment on Dog Urine and Odor Memory by veterinary technician http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/urine-odor/dog-urine-odor-memory/comment-page-1/#comment-309 veterinary technician Sun, 11 Apr 2010 13:50:49 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=885#comment-309 Great site. A lot of useful information here. I’m sending it to some friends! Great site. A lot of useful information here. I’m sending it to some friends!

]]> Comment on Urine Odor out of Concrete by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/odor-removal/urine-odor-concrete-2/comment-page-1/#comment-297 Dog Urine Tue, 09 Mar 2010 16:18:08 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=830#comment-297 Ned Let me start by saying I am not an expert on roofs. I am aware though that the tar (and tar materials) are used to seal the roof and protect the building from moisture. The gravel is used to protect the tar from the sun deteriorating it and breaking it down. I don't believe that if the roof is in otherwise good condition that the urine and feces would damage the ability of the tar to seal out moisture. And it certainly would not harm the gravel so that it could not do its function. Yes the roof would be contaminated. Anything the urine and feces comes in contact with would be contaminated. It can be decontaminated by the use of chemicals without replacing the roof. Several type of chemicals will decontaminate urine. Bio/enzymes are the primary organism used to break down sewage in treatment plants. These chemicals have to come in contact with the urine residue to break it down. You would want to clean the roof as completely as possible fist and then treat with a good chemical that will break down the urine residue and not harm the tar. As these chemicals break down the residue they eliminate the odor. When urine leaves the body it is slightly acid (uric acid) and it immediately begins to change. The Uric acid begins to be broken down into ammonia and carbon dioxide. The ammonia is highly alkaline (ph 11+). As the acidic urine reacts with the ammonia that is being created it forms alkaline salt crystals. When dried urine is re moistened it gives off ammonia gas. The odor of ammonia gas is one part of the distinctive odor that helps us to identify and locate urine. The other component of urine’s odor is off-gassing from bacteria that grow abundantly in warm, dark places. I do not know exactly how this process would affect the tar materials on the roof. Thank you for the question. Ned
Let me start by saying I am not an expert on roofs. I am aware though that the tar (and tar materials) are used to seal the roof and protect the building from moisture. The gravel is used to protect the tar from the sun deteriorating it and breaking it down. I don’t believe that if the roof is in otherwise good condition that the urine and feces would damage the ability of the tar to seal out moisture. And it certainly would not harm the gravel so that it could not do its function. Yes the roof would be contaminated. Anything the urine and feces comes in contact with would be contaminated. It can be decontaminated by the use of chemicals without replacing the roof. Several type of chemicals will decontaminate urine. Bio/enzymes are the primary organism used to break down sewage in treatment plants. These chemicals have to come in contact with the urine residue to break it down. You would want to clean the roof as completely as possible fist and then treat with a good chemical that will break down the urine residue and not harm the tar. As these chemicals break down the residue they eliminate the odor. When urine leaves the body it is slightly acid (uric acid) and it immediately begins to change. The Uric acid begins to be broken down into ammonia and carbon dioxide. The ammonia is highly alkaline (ph 11+). As the acidic urine reacts with the ammonia that is being created it forms alkaline salt crystals. When dried urine is re moistened it gives off ammonia gas. The odor of ammonia gas is one part of the distinctive odor that helps us to identify and locate urine. The other component of urine’s odor is off-gassing from bacteria that grow abundantly in warm, dark places. I do not know exactly how this process would affect the tar materials on the roof. Thank you for the question.

]]> Comment on Contact by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-296 Dog Urine Thu, 04 Mar 2010 16:31:12 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=715#comment-296 Roberta Sorry for the delay in responding. I will address a process first. The urine crystal build up is high alkaline urine salts which form as the urine dries. Like other alkaline situations (hard water, rust etc.) you can neutralize it with an acid based product. After it is neutralized it washes away easily. It basically just dissolves and runs off or down the drain in your case. The challenge I foresee with your situation is that the acid can discolor the stainless steel. You will want an acid strong enough to neutralize the urine crystals but not strong enough to damage the stainless. Some type of acids work faster than others at dissolving the urine crystals. Some are safer for the stainless steel drain covers. There are also different grades of stainless steel, which can effect how the drain cover will respond to the acid cleaning. Citric acid is very safe for the stainless steel. Dissolve 1 to 1 ½ cups of Citric acid (powder) into a gallon of hot water. Apply to the area with the urine. A sprayer with a tip that produces foam will allow the acid to stay in contact with the crystals for a longer time. Hopefully this will be enough for the slower acting citric acid to dissolve the urine. Then rinse with clear water or water with just a little alkaline (most dish, laundry or hand soaps) in it to neutralize the acid. TCU will work much faster to dissolve the urine but can also take some shine off the stainless steel. I suggest trying the citric acid first. Only go to the TCU if the citric does not work. Try the safest approach first. Especially with the TCU Neutralizer, be sure to rinse with a little alkaline in the rinse water. TCU: http://www.bridgepoint.com/products.html?item_num=CS20GL++++++++++++++&wscdet_show=320000 CITRIC ACID: http://www.bridgepoint.com/products.html?item_num=CR20A+++++++++++++++&wscdet_show=365000 Locate a distributor near you: http://www.bridgepoint.com/locator.html Roberta
Sorry for the delay in responding. I will address a process first. The urine crystal build up is high alkaline urine salts which form as the urine dries. Like other alkaline situations (hard water, rust etc.) you can neutralize it with an acid based product. After it is neutralized it washes away easily. It basically just dissolves and runs off or down the drain in your case. The challenge I foresee with your situation is that the acid can discolor the stainless steel. You will want an acid strong enough to neutralize the urine crystals but not strong enough to damage the stainless.

Some type of acids work faster than others at dissolving the urine crystals. Some are safer for the stainless steel drain covers. There are also different grades of stainless steel, which can effect how the drain cover will respond to the acid cleaning.

Citric acid is very safe for the stainless steel. Dissolve 1 to 1 ½ cups of Citric acid (powder) into a gallon of hot water. Apply to the area with the urine. A sprayer with a tip that produces foam will allow the acid to stay in contact with the crystals for a longer time. Hopefully this will be enough for the slower acting citric acid to dissolve the urine. Then rinse with clear water or water with just a little alkaline (most dish, laundry or hand soaps) in it to neutralize the acid.

TCU will work much faster to dissolve the urine but can also take some shine off the stainless steel. I suggest trying the citric acid first. Only go to the TCU if the citric does not work. Try the safest approach first. Especially with the TCU Neutralizer, be sure to rinse with a little alkaline in the rinse water.

TCU: http://www.bridgepoint.com/products.html?item_num=CS20GL++++++++++++++&wscdet_show=320000
CITRIC ACID: http://www.bridgepoint.com/products.html?item_num=CR20A+++++++++++++++&wscdet_show=365000
Locate a distributor near you: http://www.bridgepoint.com/locator.html

]]> Comment on Urine Odor out of Concrete by Ned Yuzefowich http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/odor-removal/urine-odor-concrete-2/comment-page-1/#comment-295 Ned Yuzefowich Tue, 02 Mar 2010 20:28:16 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=830#comment-295 I have tenants that have allowed their dog to urinate and deficate on a tar and gravel roof to the point that it was covered in dog feces. Other tenants stated this has been happening for 3-4 months every day. Question: Can the urine and feces break down the tar roof. If so by what process? One roofer said the roof is contaminated. Another stated that the ammonia and acidity has damaged the roof? Will the urine odor stay in the tar and smell during hot humid days. Both stated that the roof has to be replaced is this true? I have tenants that have allowed their dog to urinate and deficate on a tar and gravel roof to the point that it was covered in dog feces. Other tenants stated this has been happening for 3-4 months every day.
Question:
Can the urine and feces break down the tar roof. If so by what process? One roofer said the roof is contaminated. Another stated that the ammonia and acidity has damaged the roof? Will the urine odor stay in the tar and smell during hot humid days. Both stated that the roof has to be replaced is this true?

]]> Comment on Contact by Roberta Shoaf http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-276 Roberta Shoaf Thu, 18 Feb 2010 17:14:52 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=715#comment-276 I have stainless steel "drains" that we power spray daily, but I have a build up of urine crystals that are very hard to remove. Any suggestions on a product or process that will remove the crusty buildup? I have stainless steel “drains” that we power spray daily, but I have a build up of urine crystals that are very hard to remove. Any suggestions on a product or process that will remove the crusty buildup?

]]> Comment on Contact by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-76 Dog Urine Wed, 02 Dec 2009 16:32:10 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=715#comment-76 Rick Thanks for asking. Concrete is porous so what you have is a situation where dog urine has been soaking into the porous surface (it sounds like continuously) for a couple years. At least some of the products you have used are working. The enzymes work by digesting the urine residue. The reason you keep them wet its two-fold. One: They have to be wet to be active. When they dry they do nothing. Two: To get them to soak into the concrete far enough to reach the urine, which would be in pretty deep. Bleach uses oxygen to break down the urine. It will work also if it can reach the urine in enough concentration and for a long enough time to work (which for oxygen is fast). Washing is good and it will remove the urine it can get to. You do need to be careful with power washing though because it can drive the urine even deeper into the concrete depending on how you do it. Neutralizer you asked about also has to come in contact with the urine to change the molecules. So your challenge is to get one of these (a good product) deep enough into the concrete. Where the urine is after a couple years of soaking in. One suggestion is to apply a product and keep it wet for several days. The longer it is wet the deeper it will penetrate. Also make sure that the urine smell is not coming from surrounding items. Is there wood close that might be contaminated or fabric or even dirt. Urine will wick up several inches into other materials when present. It is common not to be able to completely remove all the odor in a situation like yours. (concrete or even wood) So an option used by professionals is to seal the concrete. After you have removed the majority of the odor you can then seal the concrete with a good pigmented shellac, varnish or acrylic sealer. These sealers have microscopic holes left in them when they dry. These holes are larger than the odor molecules so odor can still get through the sealer. If you apply two coats of sealer this will help eliminate that issue. The end result is a completely satisfactory odor neutralized environment. Get back to me with any additional questions. Rick
Thanks for asking. Concrete is porous so what you have is a situation where dog urine has been soaking into the porous surface (it sounds like continuously) for a couple years. At least some of the products you have used are working. The enzymes work by digesting the urine residue. The reason you keep them wet its two-fold. One: They have to be wet to be active. When they dry they do nothing. Two: To get them to soak into the concrete far enough to reach the urine, which would be in pretty deep. Bleach uses oxygen to break down the urine. It will work also if it can reach the urine in enough concentration and for a long enough time to work (which for oxygen is fast). Washing is good and it will remove the urine it can get to. You do need to be careful with power washing though because it can drive the urine even deeper into the concrete depending on how you do it. Neutralizer you asked about also has to come in contact with the urine to change the molecules. So your challenge is to get one of these (a good product) deep enough into the concrete. Where the urine is after a couple years of soaking in. One suggestion is to apply a product and keep it wet for several days. The longer it is wet the deeper it will penetrate. Also make sure that the urine smell is not coming from surrounding items. Is there wood close that might be contaminated or fabric or even dirt. Urine will wick up several inches into other materials when present. It is common not to be able to completely remove all the odor in a situation like yours. (concrete or even wood) So an option used by professionals is to seal the concrete. After you have removed the majority of the odor you can then seal the concrete with a good pigmented shellac, varnish or acrylic sealer. These sealers have microscopic holes left in them when they dry. These holes are larger than the odor molecules so odor can still get through the sealer. If you apply two coats of sealer this will help eliminate that issue. The end result is a completely satisfactory odor neutralized environment. Get back to me with any additional questions.

]]> Comment on Contact by Rick http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-75 Rick Tue, 01 Dec 2009 01:52:21 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=715#comment-75 Can you please tell me more about the odor neutralizer? I am working with concrete that has been used in a dog day care / kennel for a couple of years. So far I have tried a degreaser/cleaner, enzymes (which included covering the floor with plastic for 24 hours to keep it wet), white vinegar, a high-tech odor neutralizer, and finally bleach, both straight and diluted. I have power-washed at the start, and again after each of these treatments. The bad odor has been reduced but it is still present. Can you please tell me more about the odor neutralizer? I am working with concrete that has been used in a dog day care / kennel for a couple of years. So far I have tried a degreaser/cleaner, enzymes (which included covering the floor with plastic for 24 hours to keep it wet), white vinegar, a high-tech odor neutralizer, and finally bleach, both straight and diluted. I have power-washed at the start, and again after each of these treatments. The bad odor has been reduced but it is still present.

]]> Comment on Contact by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-74 Dog Urine Thu, 26 Nov 2009 18:24:27 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=715#comment-74 Rachel Thank you. I started this blog as a source of information so people can better deal with the damage they were having from dog urine. Both odors and stains. I was a professional cleaner for many years and I know there are some bad products that are being sold. And I would agree with you, they are a scam. I tried a lot of them. Back then I found a manufacturer and supplier of professional chemicals and products that produced excellent results.These same suppliers also taught courses on all aspects of the odor control industry along with other aspects of the business. Among other things these courses taught how to properly use the products to get the best results. And again they were professional products developed for distributors and professionals cleaners. I dealt with these suppliers for years. I have been working with them to develop a line of products we will offer to the end consumer (you). It is not as easy as it sounds. We hope to have the first ones available within a couple weeks. I will put up links on this site so you can find them, as soon as they are available. Rachel
Thank you. I started this blog as a source of information so people can better deal with the damage they were having from dog urine. Both odors and stains. I was a professional cleaner for many years and I know there are some bad products that are being sold. And I would agree with you, they are a scam. I tried a lot of them. Back then I found a manufacturer and supplier of professional chemicals and products that produced excellent results.These same suppliers also taught courses on all aspects of the odor control industry along with other aspects of the business. Among other things these courses taught how to properly use the products to get the best results. And again they were professional products developed for distributors and professionals cleaners. I dealt with these suppliers for years. I have been working with them to develop a line of products we will offer to the end consumer (you). It is not as easy as it sounds. We hope to have the first ones available within a couple weeks. I will put up links on this site so you can find them, as soon as they are available.

]]> Comment on Contact by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-73 Dog Urine Tue, 24 Nov 2009 18:22:12 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=715#comment-73 Susan There are a couple products that break the urine down. Oxidation will break it into basic elements such as nitrogen, carbon dioxide and oxygen. These elements are then easily cleaned out. I am not a doctor and would not presume to give medical advice. That being said, I would think that after this Oxidation process is complete the basic elements that remain would not bother your asthma or contribute to the health issues you mentioned. Also Bio/enzyme products digest the urine, break it down and change it. Bio/enzymes are the primary organism used to break down sewage in treatment plants, returning the water to a clean, non-hazardous condition. I would think either of these type products would help with your problem. When using these products you have to effectively locate the urine areas and assess how large they are. The product has to come in contact with the urine. This may mean wetting an area thoroughly. And with enzymes they take time to work so it has to be kept moist for long enough for the enzymes to be effective. You mention being allergic to molds. Molds are a completely separate issue as you know. I am presently working with a company to make available to you a line of products previously only available to professionals. They will be available through <a href="http://www.removeurine.com" rel="nofollow">www.removeurine.com</a>. Now under construction. They should have some items up within a week or two. I understand they will have a free sample you sign up for of a great Oxidation product. Susan
There are a couple products that break the urine down. Oxidation will break it into basic elements such as nitrogen, carbon dioxide and oxygen. These elements are then easily cleaned out. I am not a doctor and would not presume to give medical advice. That being said, I would think that after this Oxidation process is complete the basic elements that remain would not bother your asthma or contribute to the health issues you mentioned. Also Bio/enzyme products digest the urine, break it down and change it. Bio/enzymes are the primary organism used to break down sewage in treatment plants, returning the water to a clean, non-hazardous condition. I would think either of these type products would help with your problem. When using these products you have to effectively locate the urine areas and assess how large they are. The product has to come in contact with the urine. This may mean wetting an area thoroughly. And with enzymes they take time to work so it has to be kept moist for long enough for the enzymes to be effective. You mention being allergic to molds. Molds are a completely separate issue as you know. I am presently working with a company to make available to you a line of products previously only available to professionals. They will be available through http://www.removeurine.com. Now under construction. They should have some items up within a week or two. I understand they will have a free sample you sign up for of a great Oxidation product.

]]> Comment on Suggestion Box by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/dog-smell/suggestion-box/comment-page-1/#comment-72 Dog Urine Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:49:58 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=661#comment-72 Stephan I apologize for the delay in responding, comments were not getting to me until recently. I am thinking the only solution to the dog peeing is to get rid of the dog. There is of course potty training. That then gets the dog to pee where you want him/her too. I don't think this is what you meant though so I will address the smell. The solution to the smell is: Step one <a href="http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/urine-odor/urine-odor-2/" rel="nofollow">locate the problem</a> areas. Step two <a href="http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/dog-urine/removing-urine/" rel="nofollow">clean</a> as much urine residue out as you can. Step three treat the area and remaining urine residue with a one of the <a href="http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/odor-removal/odor-remover/" rel="nofollow">odor removal agents</a> that work. Step four: Insure that the affected areas dry properly. Method of drying will vary depending on the type of product you are using. As you locate the problem areas try to <a href="http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/pet-stains/pet-urine-1/" rel="nofollow">assess how large</a> the area is that is contaminated. You need a good idea of how much area you need to treat both in circumference and in depth. Example: Is it a 2 inch spot or a 12 inch or a 24 inch spot? Has it soaked through the carpet pad and into the wood floor? Or is it only in the face fibers of the carpet? If you do not treat all of the affected area you will get less than complete odor removal. Use a quality product that is designed to counteract the smell. All good odor removal products have to come in contact with the urine and urine residue and they will eliminate the smell. Different type products work differently so follow the instructions for the one you are using. Some work immediately on contact and others need time to work on (digest) the urine. I will soon have a page of recommended professional products that will be made available to you. Watch for it. Stephan
I apologize for the delay in responding, comments were not getting to me until recently. I am thinking the only solution to the dog peeing is to get rid of the dog. There is of course potty training. That then gets the dog to pee where you want him/her too. I don’t think this is what you meant though so I will address the smell. The solution to the smell is: Step one locate the problem areas. Step two clean as much urine residue out as you can. Step three treat the area and remaining urine residue with a one of the odor removal agents that work. Step four: Insure that the affected areas dry properly. Method of drying will vary depending on the type of product you are using. As you locate the problem areas try to assess how large the area is that is contaminated. You need a good idea of how much area you need to treat both in circumference and in depth. Example: Is it a 2 inch spot or a 12 inch or a 24 inch spot? Has it soaked through the carpet pad and into the wood floor? Or is it only in the face fibers of the carpet? If you do not treat all of the affected area you will get less than complete odor removal. Use a quality product that is designed to counteract the smell. All good odor removal products have to come in contact with the urine and urine residue and they will eliminate the smell. Different type products work differently so follow the instructions for the one you are using. Some work immediately on contact and others need time to work on (digest) the urine. I will soon have a page of recommended professional products that will be made available to you. Watch for it.

]]> Comment on Dogs Urine by Dog Urine http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/dog-urine/dogs-urine/comment-page-1/#comment-71 Dog Urine Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:38:54 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=620#comment-71 Paul The reaction is neither a stomach problem or a reaction to the concrete but a condition created from the urine. When urine leaves the body human or mammal it is slightly acid (or acidic on the ph scale). The urine begins to change as soon as it leaves the body. Uric acid in the dogs urine is broken down into ammonia and carbon dioxide. The ammonia is high alkaline on the ph scale. The reaction from the acidic urine and the ammonia creates alkaline salt crystals. This is the white residue left on the concrete from the dogs urine. A good acid pretreatment wash will neutralize the alkaline salt crystals (white residue). Once neutralized it wash’s off easily with water or another neutral cleaner. If the urine has penetrated deeply into the concrete you may want to use an enzyme digester or oxidation product to deal with any smell or other residue. But the acid cleaner will remove the alkaline salts (white residue) left from the dog urine on the concrete. Paul
The reaction is neither a stomach problem or a reaction to the concrete but a condition created from the urine. When urine leaves the body human or mammal it is slightly acid (or acidic on the ph scale). The urine begins to change as soon as it leaves the body. Uric acid in the dogs urine is broken down into ammonia and carbon dioxide. The ammonia is high alkaline on the ph scale. The reaction from the acidic urine and the ammonia creates alkaline salt crystals. This is the white residue left on the concrete from the dogs urine. A good acid pretreatment wash will neutralize the alkaline salt crystals (white residue). Once neutralized it wash’s off easily with water or another neutral cleaner. If the urine has penetrated deeply into the concrete you may want to use an enzyme digester or oxidation product to deal with any smell or other residue. But the acid cleaner will remove the alkaline salts (white residue) left from the dog urine on the concrete.

]]> Comment on Dogs Urine by paul paddick http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/dog-urine/dogs-urine/comment-page-1/#comment-9 paul paddick Tue, 27 Oct 2009 00:22:26 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=620#comment-9 there are many white stains on out concrete path from my dogs urine. Is this reaction white the concrete or a tomach problem. thanks paul there are many white stains on out concrete path from my dogs urine. Is this reaction white the concrete or a tomach problem.
thanks
paul

]]> Comment on Contact by Susan Dunker http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-6 Susan Dunker Sat, 05 Sep 2009 14:39:10 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=715#comment-6 I have an old dog who marks all over the house. I have taken out a lot of carpet and put in wood. In the carpeted areas left I smell that amonia odor and it is really getting to me. I've developed asthma and feel this off gassing or something is contributing to my health issues. Also I am allergic to several molds. Please tell me what products specifically I can use to get rid of this problem. Many thanks in advance! I have an old dog who marks all over the house. I have taken out a lot of carpet and put in wood. In the carpeted areas left I smell that amonia odor and it is really getting to me. I’ve developed asthma and feel this off gassing or something is contributing to my health issues. Also I am allergic to several molds. Please tell me what products specifically I can use to get rid of this problem. Many thanks in advance!

]]> Comment on Suggestion Box by Stephen http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/dog-smell/suggestion-box/comment-page-1/#comment-5 Stephen Sat, 05 Sep 2009 07:28:02 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?p=661#comment-5 no comment other than finding a solution to the dog peeing and the smell!! no comment other than finding a solution to the dog peeing and the smell!!

]]> Comment on Contact by Rachel http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/contact/comment-page-1/#comment-4 Rachel Fri, 28 Aug 2009 05:07:53 +0000 http://www.dogurinesolutions.com/?page_id=715#comment-4 I have read through your well thought out analysis of the types of products available to remove dog urine, but I cannot find any products listed. I am desperate! I understand the types of products I need to look for, but so many products advertised seem like they are a scam. What do you recommend? I have read through your well thought out analysis of the types of products available to remove dog urine, but I cannot find any products listed. I am desperate! I understand the types of products I need to look for, but so many products advertised seem like they are a scam. What do you recommend?

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